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Julie

The K-Beauty Breakdown


A few months ago, Laura shared her first-time experience of the widely marketed 10-step Korean beauty routine. For an entire month, she used only Korean skincare products with popular (and weird!) ingredients that boast oil-reducing, skin-plumping, and breakout-calming properties. K-beauty has become a popularized industry on its own, with Sephora even dedicating a section of its stores to sell specific Korean-made brands.

But what do these ingredients actually do? Does snail slime really work as a skincare product? Is every step in the 10-step routine necessary for younger, clearer, brighter looking skin?

I personally don’t limit my use to only Korean products (I use both Asian and Western beauty products). I do, however, adhere to the multi-step routine popularized by K-beauty. The reason why there are so many steps is because it’s important to properly prep your skin to absorb all the goodness of the ingredients in the products you’re using.

 

My Skincare Philosophy

  • Start with a good skincare routine ASAP because it’s easier to prevent wrinkles and discoloration than it is to turn back time

  • Have a thorough, but gentle cleansing routine

  • Exfoliate, hydrate, and protect skin with hydrating barriers

  • Be nice to your skin. Be gentle to it and pamper it with nourishing products. Enjoy the skincare routine like it’s a mini facial. It’s 10 minutes of self-indulging luxury!

 

My Menu of Skincare Steps

I like to use a combination of steps for my routine. Some days I do all the steps while other days I only do two or three steps, depending on how my skin is doing. I also like to have a variety of products (A LOT) to target specific skin issues. It’s definitely not necessary to have so much, but there’s no holy grail skincare product that does absolutely everything, so I like to have a lot of options.

I've also included links to some of my favorite products that work for me. For reference, I'm Asian with oily skin prone to hyper-pigmentation and occasional acne breakouts. I like to use products that help mattify my skin and fight against signs of pre-mature aging.

  • FIRST CLEANSE (removes makeup and impurities) When removing makeup and cleansing, use very slippery products (oil, balm). Avoid rubbing and scrubbing with face wipes, as it’s rough on the skin and causes tugging, which leads to wrinkles. Slippery removers are much more gentle and prevent tugging when using fingers. Massage well to promote circulation.

  • SECOND CLEANSE (gently cleans skin without stripping it of natural oils) Cleanse neck, behind ears, and along hairline as well. Use lukewarm water and pat dry (remember, avoid tugging skin to prevent wrinkles)

  • EXFOLIATE Depending on what type of. exfoliator you use, this step can happen either during cleansing, or it can be later during your treatment step. There are 2 types:

Physical (exfoliating scrubs) – Often comes in the form of a face cleanser. I tend to avoid physical exfoliants because it’s too harsh on my skin. But if using, go for fine-texture, natural ingredients. Avoid synthetic ingredients like plastic microbeads because it’s bad for the environment.

Chemical (AHA and BHA exfoliants) – Often coming in the form of a serum or treatment application, it’s more gentle than exfoliating scrubs. AHAs and BHAs are not good for skin with eczema or rosacea because they can strip the skin and exacerbate dryness and itchiness.

*Make sure to always wear SPF, especially when using any kind of exfoliant in your routine.*

  • TONER / MICELLAR WATER (cleanses and moisturizes skin) Toners have multiple types/uses (hydrating, soothing, astringent) and micellar water is made of tiny balls of natural cleansing oils that clean the skin while also hydrating it at the same time. Both are essentially the final cleansing step. I use micellar water in between face washes when my skin feels oily or uncomfortable (i.e. waking up if you don’t cleanse your face in the mornings). If wearing light makeup, I’ll forego the first and second cleanse and just use micellar water instead.

  • ESSENCE (hydrating, cleansing, beneficial active ingredients) Essences add back good skin-identical ingredients that may have been stripped away during cleansing.

  • SERUM / TREATMENTS (products for specific skincare issues or for an extra boost) By this point in the routine, the skin is thoroughly prepped and hydrated, ready to receive any additional nourishing treatments. Depending on how my skin is doing, this step is where I’ll decide if my skin could use treatments such as a serum (a stronger version of essence designed to penetrate deeply into skin), acne spot treatment, or a face mask targeting specific skin needs. I’ll skip this step if my skin is already happy.

  • FACE OIL Optional extra hydration; can be used alone or mixed with light moisturizer or even makeup liquid foundation

  • EYE CREAM Not necessary unless you want more intense care around the eyes (serum is to face as eye cream is to eyes). Put eye cream in fridge for instant cooling and soothing.

  • MOISTURIZER What’s the difference between a hydrator (like a hydrating serum) and a moisturizer? Simply put, a hydrator contains humectants (i.e. glycerin, hyaluronic acid) that attracts and holds on to water, thus treating skin dehydration. A moisturizer, on the other hand, contains emollients (i.e. oils) to treat dryness. Think - hydrators treat the lack of water; moisturizers treat the lack of oil. My most basic routine requires only two steps: cleanse and moisturize. I never skip the moisturizer as it always leaves my skin feeling like its most natural state.

  • FACE CREAM (extra boost in hydration and treatment) Face creams are thicker, more intensive moisturizing, so I usually opt to use this final step during the winter when my skin is at its dryest. If I’m using a treatment face cream (i.e. anti-aging or ultra-hydrating) I’ll only pack it on at night when I’m going to bed knowing my skin is working hard while I’m getting my beauty sleep.

 

See below for our handy K-Beauty Cheat Sheet!

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